At the Royal Gunpowder Mills Museum, once a top-secret government research establishment, visitors can learn about the history and manufacture of explosives.
Explosives have been produced on the banks of the River Lea at Waltham Abbey, on the outskirts of London, since the 17th century until well into the 20th century. Originally the mills were privately owned but the British government bought the factory in 1787 to ensure a good supply of gunpowder for its various conflicts.
The factory struggled to meet the needs of the Crimean War (1854-1856) and soon afterwards mills powered by steam were installed. The remains of the Victorian machinery can still be seen. The mills were in use right through to the 20th century with over 6,000 workers being employed during the First World War. During the Second World War, munitions production moved to Scotland and Wales because the Lea Valley site could be too easily attacked by enemy bombers. Large-scale manufacture ended and all scientific staff had left the mills by 1991.
The Royal Gunpowder Mills Museum
The Royal Gunpowder Mills are now an exhibition, education, and wildlife centre. Some of the buildings on the site date back to the 17th century, but most are in poor condition. Those that can be used have been converted into exhibition and education spaces.
The Main Exhibition and Armoury
The main building houses an exhibition hall, lecture theatre and armoury. The exhibition explores the development and manufacture of explosives. The fully interactive display is divided into sections showing:
- the origins of gunpowder and how it came from China to the UK
- the differences between explosives and propellants
- ingredients used for making gunpowder and how are they gathered
- life on a battle ship's gun deck
- a selection of interesting items discovered around the site
- how gunpowder was transported by the powder boats
From Nitroglycerine to the Bouncing Bomb
The display explains how smokeless propellants, such as Cordite invented by Sir Frederick Abel (1827-1902), came into use at the end of the 19th century. Smokeless propellants were necessary because gunpowder makes too much smoke, thus revealing the location of the gun. Huge amounts were needed during World War I, and in 1914 production at Waltham Abbey increased dramatically.
The exhibition also looks at the work of other scientists including Ascanio Sobrero (1812-1888), inventor of Nitroglycerine; Christian Friedrich Schönbein (1799-1868), inventor of Guncotton; Alfred Bernhard Nobel (1833-1896), inventor of Ballistite and Dynamite; and Sir Barnes Neville Wallis CBE FRS, RDI, FRAeS (1887 - 1979) and his Bouncing Bomb.
What Else is on Display?
In the armoury more than 200 firearms, ranging from rocket launchers to machine guns, are on display. Small arms and militaria date from the English Civil War to the present day. This is a hands-on experience where visitors can learn how to load, cock, aim and ‘fire’ a wide range of weapons.
In the lecture theatre a 15-minute award-winning film takes visitors on a journey through time from the discovery of gunpowder to the race into space.
In other buildings on site visitors can enjoy the 1940s exhibition, the Women at War photo gallery, a military truck tour of the site, and the Rocket Vault which explores the various rockets developed at the Mills. At the education centre children can take part in activities while they learn about the Gunpowder Plot. Or visit Professor Nitrate's Mad Lab and test out his latest theories – definitely fun for all the family.
Canals, Trains, and a Nature Reserve
The 170 acres of the Royal Gunpowder Mills are criss-crossed by eight kilometres of man-made canals used for moving materials around within the site. A barge, once used on the canals, is on display. During the First World War the canal system was unable to cope with the increased production so a narrow gauge (18 inch/450 mm) railway system was installed, parts of which can still be seen.
Some parts of the RGM grounds are now a protected Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). An old water tower provides a look-out post across the nature reserve which is home to Fallow Deer, Muntjac deer, rabbits, hare, dragon flies and herons. There is optional 45-minute tour by Land Train during which visitors can see a deep pool constructed for the investigation of underwater explosives, an artificial mound built in 1896 for the hazardous manufacture of nitroglycerine, and a hydraulic gunpowder press. However, no guarantee is given that visitors will see the wildlife!
Visit the Royal Gunpowder Mills
RGM is open 10am - 5pm weekends, Bank Holidays, and school holidays, from May to September. Special event days, such as the annual Victorian Christmas and pantomime attract large numbers every year. Information regarding admission charges, open days, and special events is available from Royal Gunpowder Mills.
Frances Spiegel - Frances Spiegel, B.A. Hons. (Open)., Dip.Eur.Hum., read Art History/European Modern History at the Open University.
